Vote for Best of Morocco Blogs

760 Days in Morocco and a host of other really great Morocco blogs have been nominated for Best of Morocco Blogs.  Please go vote!

Also, I hope you’ll take a moment to read some of my current works online:

• Islam writing at Factoidz.com
• Lifestyle writing at Suite101.com
• Food writing at Associated Content

Some of the blog posts are getting sold off, but links to their new locations will let you know where to find them.  And, I’ll be participating in Talk Morocco discussions as long as they’ll have me…next topic is coming soon!

And that is the last and truly final blog post!

 

Guest Post: Suggested Moroccan Reading by Essaouira Walking

Sorry readers, this is not 760 Days in Morocco reviving itself, just a guest post that was long in the works before I decided to stop blogging here.  Essaouira Walking has compiled an excellent list of books on Morocco- from non-fiction to novels and even some cookbooks!  Originally, to create a books reference page for the blog but I’ve gotten bit busy since ending the blog and I’m not sure I’ll get to make it happen.  For now, I hope you enjoy Essaouira Walking’s great post and reading suggestions.  Feel free to add any books you don’t see here in the comments

Books by non-Moroccan Authors

Fiction

• The Road to Fez, by Ruth Knafo Setton – A book of love and self-discovery, The Road to Fez is a collection of fragments of memory, desire, and loss. Knafo Setton manages to convey the story with precision and a fantastic language. She introduces the reader to a vibrant Sephardic family in Morocco, and through this family, the reader feels the longing and pain of a forbidden love; plunges into the mysteries of the brief, tragic life of a young girl; and explores issues of identity, exile, and home. The questions the author raises about love and identity resonate, as she creates and successfully sustains an abstract atmosphere of tension and mystique throughout the story, and her descriptions of the land and its characters are so vivid and concrete they are almost tangible. This book will make you want to go to Fez!
• The Tangier Script, by Victor Barker – The most impressive aspect of this book is the way it evokes Tangier, one of the most portrayed Moroccan cities. The Tangier Script creates a series of interesting and colorful characters that lived in Tangier and contributed to the essence of the place. It is a wonderful, interesting drama that takes you right into the alleys of the city and makes you feel like you are there as well. The first chapter can be read here, and you can also check reviews here.

 Other Suggested Reading

• The Torch of Tangier, Aileen G. Baron
• Desert, J. M. G. Le Clézio
• Larabi’s Ox: Stories of Morocco, Tony Ardizzone

 Non-fiction

• Women of Fes: Ambiguities of Urban Life in Morocco, by Rachel Newcomb – This book is considered a textbook of contemporary ethnography, but it is an engaging and very well-written study of women and gender change in contemporary Morocco. Employing the narratives of several Fassi women, the reader is led into a world where women consciously try to create and then embrace their own forms of modernity, while dealing with the social challenges of a traditional society. Women of Fes is a very good read for anyone interested in contemporary Morocco.
• Allah’s Garden: A True Story of a Forgotten War in the Sahara Desert of Morocco, by Thomas Hollowell – Allah’s Garden takes you in an unforgettable and intriguing journey. From the author’s introduction to Morocco through the Peace Corps through the tortured story and eventual release of the main character (Azzedine Benmansour), Allah’s Garden will keep you involved with a moving account until the end. A must read for anyone interested in this fascinating country, its culture, its people, its religion and the tumultuous history they have overcome. And as an added plus, if you are not a big fan of nonfiction reading, Allah’s Garden is a nonfiction book that reads just like a novel.
• Casablanca Notebook: A Collection of Tales from Morocco, by Louise Roberts Sheldon – Casablanca Notebook takes place between 1975 and 1996, a period that was one of critical importance in the history of Morocco, and of the Arab world: King Hassan II’s pro-Western stance encouraged all manner of contacts with Americans. This book is the fruit of that policy. The author, a seasoned reporter and illustrator, traveled from the circles of wealth and power to the far corners of the country and even into the Western Sahara to witness the fighting between Moroccan forces and the Algerian-backed Polisario. Her eyes saw the big picture, as well as the small one, with fair clarity and sympathy, and her portraits of the ordinary people, Arab and Berber, ring true. From the hazards of inter-cultural city marriages to the intricate rituals of a Berber wedding in the High Atlas, she takes the reader on a voyage of discovery. This is a fascinating look into a land that can sometimes feel very foreign.
• Morocco: The Traveller’s Companion, by Margaret Bidwell and Robin Bidwell – This book is a collection of the writings of well-known travelers about their travels to Morocco—it offers a fascinating picture of Moroccan culture through their eyes and impressions of the place. In addition, to sketches of sumptuous entertainment, colorful festivals, and the infamous Barbary corsairs, this book contains descriptions of childhood, marriage and the practice of medicine in old Morocco. As a treat, it also includes some favorite Moroccan folk-tales and recipes.
• A Year in Marrakesh, by Peter Mayne – This book was originally published in 1953, but it is still in publication after all these years because it’s simply a classic! A Year in Marrakesh offers light and a compassionate view of life in Marrakesh. Mayne relocated to Marrakesh and became a part of the city, he came to know it in a way that very few foreigners do. There are many lively characters here, painted with a comprehensive brush that shows them to be real and interesting people. It’s a fun and enlightening read.
• A Street in Marrakech: A Personal View of Urban Women in Morocco, by Elizabeth Warnock Fernea – If you don’t get a chance to move to Marrakesh and live in the old medina, this book will give you the most accurate portrayal of what that feels like. The author is an anthropologist who speaks fluent Arabic, from having previously lived in Iraq and Egypt. This enables her to converse with people daily and understand them accurately, which helps her to give a very detailed look at an aspect of life which is nearly impossible for most outsiders to penetrate: the hidden life of Medina women and of what takes place behind the high, closed walls. It should be noted though that this book is not intended as an anthropologic study. Instead, it is the detailed, personal history of one family’s year-long experience of living and immersing itself in the life of Marrakesh. It’s told from a woman’s perspective, and focuses on domestic life, the sharp difference between public and home behavior in Islamic societies, the pervasiveness of religion, and male-female roles.

 Other Suggested Reading

• In Morocco, by Edith Wharton
• The Voices of Marrakesh, by Elias Canetti
• Humor and Moroccan Culture, by Matthew Helmke
• Tangier: City of the Dream, by Iain Finlayson
• See Ouarzazate and Die: Travels Through Morocco, by Sylvia Kennedy

Books by Moroccan Authors

Fiction

• The Last Friend, by Tahar Ben Jelloun  – Written in chapters of 2 or 3 pages, The Last Friend is a captivating novel about the trials and tribulations of a life-long friendship in a country torn apart by colonialism, it is a tale of friendship and betrayal set in twentieth century Tangier. Written in Ben Jelloun’s inimitable and powerfully direct style, the novel explores the twists and turns of an intense friendship of 30 years between two young men struggling to find their identities and sexual fulfillment in Morocco during the late 1950s, a complex and contradictory society both modern and archaic. The book is an exploration of the mystery of friendship itself.
• This Blinding Absence of Light, by Tahar Ben Jelloun - Told in a very straightforward manner, it generally lets the events speak for themselves. There are times when it is so grim and relentless that it is hard to keep reading, but a great reward awaits the reader who persists, as this is not a story about the depths of human suffering and cruelty, but about the depths of human resilience and compassion, which are deeper still. The book will make you enter a world where untold cruelty and human suffering were a daily part of life.
• Leaving Tangier, by Tahar Ben Jelloun  – Leaving Tangier is a sad book—it is a portrait of immigrants and would-be immigrants, who reluctantly leave, or are forced to leave their homes and families for what is often the false promise of a new and more rewarding life in a different country and culture. These unwanted departures are necessary because Morocco cannot provide them with any reasonable opportunity for a decent future, and these are people who are unwilling to accept that fate so early in life. The stories are heartbreakingly sad and accurately reflect the experiences of thousands of immigrants who struggle to build new lives in countries where they are not really welcomed; where their cultural background, physical looks and limited education keep most of them outside the new culture and at a permanent disadvantage economically and socially.
• Hope and Other Dangerous Pursuits, by Laila Lalami – Dealing with illegal immigration, Hope and Other Dangerous Pursuits tells the stories of four people who try to cross the Strait of Gibraltar to Spain in an inflatable boat. Laila Lalami paints a vivid picture of life in contemporary Morocco, and the poverty, political repression and desperation driving these people to risk their lives in search of a better one. Some fail, some succeed, and Lalami does a “before and after” comparison of their lives. Despite dire circumstances, Lalami tries to show that these people still dare to hope, or perhaps, that they have no choice but to hope, as the alternative is despair. The story is well-written and told, and gives a great introduction into the culture of Morocco and the struggles that some audiences may not be aware of.
• Secret Son, by Laila Lalami – Secret Son is a wonderful literary tale of a very “real” story. This book helps readers to understand not only Arab culture, but a common situation in modern Morocco. Secret Son is the story of one young Moroccan’s struggle for self identity in the midst of a society that is undergoing economic, political and cultural changes, albeit changes that are not enough to keep up with the country’s population growth and aspirations. The book can be poignant and uncomfortable at time, but it is an engaging story that depicts Morocco and its modern society.
• The Last Chapter, by Leila Abouzeid – The Last Chapter is a realistic novel about a Moroccan woman’s struggle in her own community. It depicts her struggles as she tries to be both modern and religious. Abouzeid attempts to argue for the misconceptions that have circumscribed Islam, as religion is a major part in the Muslim lives and can’t simply be denied. She explains how religion is sometimes manipulated for personal or political ends, but how in reality, Islam dictates that “Seeking knowledge is the religious duty of every Muslim man and woman”. The book highlights the misinterpretations of Islam and its position towards women. 
• Year of the Elephant, by Leila Abouzeid – Year of the Elephant proved to be a pretty enlightening novel, it is told from the point of view of Zahra, the protagonist who finds herself in a constant struggle for independence. Year of the Elephant is the first novel by a Moroccan woman to be translated from Arabic to English, and it provides readers with a different vantage point from which to view North African life. Many of the events of Abouzeid’s narrative (divorce, the struggle against poverty, interfamilial conflict, etc.) are common themes in contemporary Moroccan literature, but are presented here in a new perspective—that of a woman.  
• Abu Musa’s Women Neighbors: A Historical Novel from Morocco by Ahmed Taufiq – This book is a passionate tale, and the most beautiful invitation to Moroccan, and Arabic, literature and Islamic culture. As Taufiq’s first literary work, Abu Musa’s Women Neighbors reinvents the genre of hagiographic and mystical tales into the contemporary form of an Arabic novel. At the threshold of history and fiction, it pushes the limits of both towards an artistic creation. which is at once a vivid restitution of life, and a journey into the intricacies of the human soul, the passions and abuses of power and government, and the enigma of destiny. One special characteristic of this book is that, unlike other contemporary reinvestments of vernacular and mystical themes in Maghribi literature, it is not addressed to a European or American audience, and it does not cast a nostalgic gaze. Instead, Taufiq writes for his fellow citizens, for Moroccans, and yet his way of telling the story, and his exploration of the turns of history and the meanders of the human soul, make this work accessible and involving for an international reader.

 Other Suggested Reading

• Flutes of Death, by Driss Chraibi
• Le Passe Simple, by Driss Chraibi (In French)
• Mon Maroc, by Abdellah Taia (In French)
• A Life Full of Holes, by Driss Ben Hamed Charhadi
• Love in Two Languages, by Aldelkebir Khatibi
• The Lemon, by Mohammed Mrabet
• The Polymath, by Bensalem Himmich

Non-fiction

• For Bread Alone, by Mohamed Choukri - For Bread Alone is the autobiography of Mohamed Choukri. The definite must-read of Moroccan literature, a book that Tennessee Williams herself described as “A true document of human desperation, shattering in its impact.” This book is one of the first works by Choukri, a chronicle of his life as he moved himself from illiteracy to become a renowned writer and professor in his homeland. It is a frank narrative into the customs and often hidden behavior of Moroccan life, in earlier times. It will make you think.
• Islam and Democracy: Fear of the Modern World, by Fatima Mernissi- In this book, Mernissi provides an interesting social perspective of Islam and its fear of democracy; while providing a solid argument for the need for Islam to embrace democracy. Islam and Democracy argues that the positive aspects and practice of Islam would flourish if the Muslims were to choose their faith freely, rather than choosing out of ignorance or fear. The positive aspects of the religion would provide no threat to other cultures and religions, as that is true Islam. The book is provocative and offers profound insights about Islam.
• Dreams of Trespass: Tales of a Harem Girlhood, by Fatima Mernissi- This book offers an insight into what life used to be like for Moroccan women, and an understanding of the traditional culture. This is the collection of stories of a group of women who spent their growing up years behind high walls and closed doors, hidden from the outside world. But it is much more than simply a memoir of a childhood lived within a secluded harem, Dreams of Trespass is also a story of a process of change that took place decades ago as the country of Morocco was becoming an independent nation state. The stories are told with sympathy and compassion, as well as a deep respect for, and understanding of, Islam.
• Scheherazade Goes West , by Fatima Mernissi- This book can be a challenging read for Western women, but it is really magnificent and truthful. The advice is to read it with an open mind, and use the author’s observations to confront and question what you already “know”. As a Muslim scholar, Mernissi gives us a fresh perspective on women’s positions in both the Islamic and the Western world. This book is about claiming freedom—the freedom for women to think about who they are, about the courage it takes to push through the unexamined female prisons of both Western and Islamic insularity, to view themselves in a wider place, and choose who they will be and who their daughters will be.

Other Suggested Reading

• Streetwise, by Mohamed Choukri

Cookbooks

• Made in Morocco, by Julie Le Clerc
• Traditional Moroccan Cooking: Recipes from Fez, by Z. Guinaudeau
• Couscous and Other Good Food from Morocco, by Paula Wolfert
• Cooking at the Kasbah: Recipes from My Moroccan Kitchen , by Kitty Morse
• Tagine: Spicy Stews from Morocco, by Ghillie Basan
• Modern Morocco, by Hassan M’souli

Photography Books

• Morocco: Timeless Places, by Annette Soloyst
• Medinas: Morocco’s Hidden Cities, by Tahar Ben Jelloun and Jean Marc Tingaud
•  My Morocco, by Bruno Barbey
• Splendours of Morocco, by Izza Genini, Jacques Bravo, and Xavier Richer
• Morocco: 5000 Years of Culture, by Vincent Boele
• Maroc: Les montagnes du silence, by Tahar Ben Jelloun and Philippe Lafond

Related books posts on 760 Days: Essential Cookbook Collection, House in Morocco, and How Could I Forget Hideous Kinky.

760 Days comes to an end…

Dear Readers,

The end of our 760 Days in Morocco are not yet here (still quite a few months to go), but at this time I’m going to discontinue blogging about it.  My heart is not in it anymore and my original intention has been lost- it feels like a burden and like work I don’t want to complete.  I want to focus on some other things that have fallen by the wayside because I focus too much on the blog.  When I first started the blog I didn’t think anyone was really doing what I intended this blog to do, but so many out there are, and I hope the side links help you find them all.  The blog will not go away- it will still be here, just without any new additions (oh, except one guest post coming soon because the lovely lady writing it has put a lot of time and effort into it and I think it’s a going to be a great asset to the blog). Thank you all for the support over the past few months, and to those of you who I’ve connected with personally I hope we will keep in touch.  Be well.

Salam Alaikum,

Living in Morocco

Stat Q: Are electronic goods expensive in Morocco?

What an excellent and timely question to appear in the stats.  I just read an excellent post over at Evelynn in Morocco about daily economics which touches upon this.  Additionally, one of the great things about Morocco is that things like electronic goods come in every size variety and price point so that almost everything can be affordable.

For example, refrigerators and washing machines come from tiny (seriously, I’ve seen washers than probably wouldn’t wash more than three t-shirts) and basic to fancy with all the frills, while things like computers, cell phones, and mp3 players also offer a variety of models for various budgets- but are on the more expensive side.  Almost all of these things can be bought used as well and vendors on the street will even provide an extension cord to demonstrate it works before you buy. 

They key is to really shop around and don’t buy the first thing you see.  For example, we bought a half-size refrigerator for 700 DH (about $100 USD at the time) found in a dusty corner at a small appliance store.  Later, we found the very same model for twice the price at Asswak Assalam in Marrakesh.  Also, some of the smaller stores selling more decorative items also stock electric hot plates- an alternative to a gas tank and stove.  Toaster ovens, space heaters, irons and hair dryers are all good examples of size and price variations.

Trinkets & Customs

Inspiration breeds inspiration.  The other day, MarocMama and I had a Twitter convo about oranges which she then wrote about in her blog.  Her story about trying to get them through United States customs inspired me to write a post about that very thing- customs.  When you come to a place like Morocco where shopping is plentiful, cheap, and often whimsical, it’s hard not to amass a suitcase full of treasures to bring back to the United States.  While we have yet to collect much more than a couple of trinkets, we are starting to make our list of Moroccan reminders we want to bring back with us.  To give an American home a touch of Morocco I’d like to have some artwork, one of those sequined quilted tapestries and matching pillows, a set of tea glasses (we already have teapots), a few other traditional wall hangings and of course spices, argan oil products, and plenty of kese and savon beldi to keep up our weekly hammam routine (in a steamed up bathroom of course).  I want a little salt & cumin double tagines as well as a few smaller tagines for serving olives and dips, but I’ve yet to hear of anyone other than Martha Stewart and Paula Wolfert successfully transporting a cooking sized tagine back without breaking it.  The list goes on and I’ve already reserved one full suitcase just for these items as well as gifts for family and friends.

I went through customs once already with quite a few goodies in my bag- a teapot and glasses, t-shirts, dates and figs, a box of sugar bricks and tea, chebekia and briaouts- all without incidence.  I was nervous about the dried fruits, but the agent said they were fine and didn’t even inspect them.  I was also nervous about the fake Louis Vuitton bag I was carrying because there are strict rules about the amount of these products you can bring in.  I was so nervous that I left my real Coach bag back in Morocco for fear they would take it away from me!  Instead, the agent struck up a conversation with me about them and even told me about her similar purchases in Japan.  She got hers for half of what I paid for my poor quality obvious fake and I felt a momentary twinge of jealousy.  Among my parents goods were two bottles of Moroccan wine and a bottle of imported Vodka as well as all the typical t-shirts and other souvenirs one might bring back to grandchildren.  No reported incidents there either. 

At any rate, it’s smart to check the United States Customs and Border Protection  website, especially the Travel pages to check on all items allowed and not allowed before traveling back to the United States from Morocco.  Take it from MarocMama- it would be a shame for a lovely bag of mandarins to go to waste!

As far as coming into Morocco, I’ve had a few comments and questions on the blog about that.  Both times I’ve come in, I’ve been waved right through with bags (remember, the first time we had 7!), yet I’ve seen other people’s bags being searched.  To my knowledge, my parents weren’t searched either.  Both their bags and ours were packed with goods and products without any regard for what the actual rules or laws might be.  I’ve heard books might be scrutinized and confiscated, and I feared my precious kitchen knife would definitely be taken away if found (though it was still in its original packaging).  I wonder what they would have thought of the Sunbeam electric mixer in our suitcase the first trip back or the multiple pairs of Levi’s on the second?

If you’re a little smarter than me, you might want to check the Moroccan Customs website before you pack your  bags for Morocco.

So, here are a few questions…

• What trinkets, souvenirs and artifacts did you buy and bring back from Morocco?
• Did you leave any behind that you still wish you’d brought back?
• Has anyone brought back black market DVD’s or computer programs?
• Are laptop computers powered up and searched upon reentry?
• Have you had any issues with bringing goods back through United States customs?
• Have you had any issues with brining goods into Morocco?
• Any other advice, scary, or funny customs stories?

Score! Zara in Morocco

A few weeks ago I came across a post on Hijabtrendz about these cute little Al Amira style winter hat from Zara.  As soon as I saw it I said “oh man, I so want that, but alas I’ll never get it from here in Morocco”.  I assumed the store was a UK brand because I’d never heard of it before, and many of the hijab bloggers are in the UK.  That was dumb because when I bothered to read the About section on the blog (just now), I found it’s by an American blogger! 

One of each, any color please!

Anyhow, as most people do when they see something they like, I couldn’t stop thinking about it.  I’d love to have one for the winter when I already top my hijab with a winter hat and scarf when it’s really cold.  Finally, this morning I decided to look up Zara and see if I could maybe order it online, have it sent to the United States and just retrieve it when we return.  I couldn’t find the piece on the website, or a place to order online.  However, I poked around to see where there were stores and to my surprise, there are quite a few in the United States- great, but I’m still not getting the hijab.  Or am I? 

I scrolled over one of the categories (I can’t remember which now) and a bunch of countries came up including Morocco.  Then it dawned on me to check the store locations for Africa.  There was Morocco (and Tunisia) with four locations in Casablanca (2), Marrakesh, and Agadir.  Since we’re planning to be in Marrakesh for the new year, I’ll definitely be looking for the Zara store and the cute little hijab hat.  If I don’t find it then at least I know I tried!

Zara store locations in Morocco:

• Agadir: Marina Agadir Quai West, 84000 Agadir, 212 28820469
• Casablanca: Blvd. Al Massira - Mesou, Casablanca, 212 22362337 and Med V – Terminal 2, 20240 Casablanca 212 225 39927
• Marakesh: Pl. Marr. Av. Mohamed V – Ima, Marrakesh, 212 24423925

Photos from Hijabtrendz.com.

Talk Morocco

I found myself unusually busy this morning and I’m just getting around to turning on the computer and seeing what’s going on.  To my delight, I learned that Talk Morocco launched today!  It’s way more interesting than anything I have to say here today, so check it out.

What is Talk Morocco?  From the editors Hisham Khribchi and Jillian C. York:

Just a few months ago, Talk Morocco was merely a vague concept the two of us had tossed around. Though we are both dedicated writers and activists for free speech, we also both have full-time jobs and so at first found taking on such a project overwhelming at best, impossible at worst. Yet here we are.

So how did the idea first come about?

Our format was inspired in part by the Creative Syria forum which Jillian (a Syriaphile) discovered a couple of years ago and which deserves to be acknowledged for the role it has played in uniting Syrian bloggers. We can only hope Talk Morocco will do the same for the Blogoma (Moroccan blogosphere).

The prominence of new media has offered the Moroccan public new ways for expression that were unimaginable just decades ago, when under tight state control over mass media, the only outlets available to convey news and views were either official or partisan press. Although a new species of investigative print media appeared in the market in the past two decades, a wave of seizures and restrictions has limited Morocco’s once distinctively active independent press.

But in its wake came the Internet: In a relatively short amount of time, a lively Moroccan blogosphere has grown increasingly influential, circumventing an obsolescent system of censorship. Bloggers posting in Arabic, French, Spanish, Berber and English deal with different social, political, economic and religious issues that have marked the country’s recent history. In covering the Blogoma for Global Voices Online, we have noticed the rapid growth of this sphere of free speakers. At the same time, we saw a lack of interaction between groups of bloggers who aggregated in virtually separate realms according to their field of interest, location, language of expression, political or cultural background. Moreover, bloggers, the newcomers into the media landscape, seldom interact or share the same platform with professional journalists and authors who once exclusively dominated the space.

Our solution was Talk Morocco, aimed at bringing together these various groups around subjects of common interest. Talk Morocco will provide a platform for established and unknown bloggers, journalists and authors, Moroccans and non-Moroccans, English speakers and non-English speakers, to comment on subjects relating to Morocco and the diaspora.

We chose the first topic–that of free speech in Morocco–for a multitude of reasons, but most of all for how it represents our project on the whole. We, as bloggers and Moroccophiles, recognize the important role of the Blogoma, and believe that one key element of free speech comes from inclusiveness: of different opinions, different people, different voices. And since freedom of expression is, as we see it, a precondition to achieve all other forms of freedoms (thought, religion, association, academic and scientific freedoms), we thought it was appropriate to put forward this fundamental issue as an opening topic for discussion. Recent news coming out from Morocco has been (unfortunately) comforting us on our choice.

We hope that Talk Morocco will effectively connect the dots between different breeds of Moroccan bloggers and be a junction point where bloggers, journalists, and authors can come together and have enlightened and informed discussions on matters related to Morocco.

Sincerely,

Jillian and Hisham.

I, for one, am looking forward to reading all the essays and seeing what conversations come about on the first topic: Knocking on the Palace Door:  What will it take for freedom of the press to establish itself in Morocco? 

This is just the first of many Talk Morocco discussions so be sure to subscribe before you leave, and you can follow Talk Morocco on Twitter and Facebook.

The past couple of days…

On Friday morning we woke up around 6 a.m. to a shakedown right underneath our window.  At first it was terrible screams, those I imagined of someone being stabbed.  The yells got louder, begging for neighbors to wake up and help.  Then skin to skin blows could be heard and the slapping of bare feet against the pavement.  The yells turned to screams of agony, more cries for help and other voices saying “pay the money you owe”, then with a few final screams there were a few moments of silence before a female voice called out and more people entered the street to see what was going on.  Finally, the footsteps and commotion faded down the street and left my heart racing while I begged my husband to tell me what he saw out the window.  There was no bloodshed, stabbing or anything like that- just a few blows to the back of the man who owed money. I wondered why my brother-in-law was always away when these things seemed to go on in the neighborhood.  I imagined the very same scenario in a neighborhood in America, one more likely to have a gun shot or two go off in the middle of it all.  I couldn’t fall back to sleep, but thought more about all the violence I’ve seen in Morocco and all the violence I see happening in America via Fox News, CNN and the CBS Evening News here.  And, even though I’ve seen and heard far more physical altercations since I’ve been in Morocco, I feel so much safer here knowing guns are not allowed in this country. 

The rest of Friday sort of passed by without much of a do about anything, that is until my husband brought home a lovely treat in the evening- strawberries.  The first of the season, they are still relatively small, but so red and sweet.  They come in little containers at first with a proud stamp indicating they are a product of Morocco.  As the season develops, strawberries will be piled high on wooden carts to be bagged in quantities of one’s own desire.  They will get bigger, more juicy and sweeter and they will still be a product of Morocco.  One of my most lovely memories of Morocco will be the sight of one of those carts filled with glistening strawberries in Mohammedia during our first visit there.  We bought a bag full for 10 DH.  And, here’s a little tip- when you buy the strawberries in the little plastic container, don’t throw the container away.  It makes an excellent little vessel for organizing a drawer or shelf perfect for holding little trinkets.  I often keep on in my vegetable crisper in the refrigerator for keeping all my little chilies or lemons. 

Finally, on Saturday we took a much-needed trip to the hammam since we couldn’t go the week before and it’s too cold to take a shower in the house (yea, you can read that as we did not have a shower for a whole week- that’s life sometimes).  The ladies all asked if we slaughtered a sheep by slicing their necks with their fingers and making the motions of barbecuing the brochettes.  I even managed to have a conversation with my casella about whether or not we make the sacrifice in the United States.  We came home so bright faced and fresh feeling, we decided to tackle an errand downtown despite the bus issues we had earlier in the week.

How silly of me to be so optimistic.  We immediately took a petit taxi to our destination in the medina because the buses wouldn’t be going where we needed to be, but I thought surely we’d find a bus back this time.  After our errand, we had a redeeming lunch/dinner in at Pizza Ricca where I discovered the double fromage panini with mustard.  They are back in our good graces, especially after bringing us additional frites when the measly portion they brought us at first didn’t cut it.  We left this time with a good meal in our bellies, and a reasonable price paid for it all. 

After a walk around the medina for a little while, we stopped for glace (ice cream) at Cherahzade (my new favorite place for ice cream) and walked to the buses.  We felt we had such a wonderful day, and I tried to keep telling myself that no matter what happened with the buses it would not ruin the great time we had.  That was until an hour and a half later after we tried several blocks, got rejected by several taxis, got a taxi stolen from us, didn’t see a single bus in all that time and finally found a grand taxi going to Al Kamra- the day was somewhat ruined.  As soon as we got home and popped two headache pills, we marked the calendar with “no trips to the medina for the rest of December” just as a little reminder.  Man, I’m going to miss that panini!

A weekend like that certainly deserves a day of rest and relaxation which is what I hoped today would entail until we were awakened by a beggar band banging their drums and clapping their hand symbol up and down the street.  Once they faded, I fired up the computer and found the most heartbreaking story of another Moroccan love story interrupted by the law of the land:  Morocco-and an ode to a romantic lesson learned from a Moroccan judge by Essaouira Walking.  I’ve felt your pain, just hang in there- it’s totally worth it in the end.

P.S. Submit your suggestions for the Best of Morocco Blog Awards on MoroccoBlogs.com.

Travel by Train

Trains are by far the best way to travel throughout Morocco.  They are inexpensive, have frequent timetables, get you to most major cities in Morocco, and you can watch the varied landscapes of Morocco pass you by as you travel from one place to the next. There’s even a first class cabin if you want to travel in style, but I’m not sure what more they afford you other than a little bit bigger seat.  Otherwise, the second class cabins are clean and comfortable with just a few exceptions of some train relics still on the tracks.  While they can get crowded, you can more often than not find a seat.  The double-decker commuter trains from Rabat to Casablanca (I think they actually start in Kenitra) are crowded to standing room only during the mornings and evenings- rush hour. 

Unfortunately, mishaps can occur when riding the train.  On one of our first train rides to El Jadida, we were stopped for an unusually long time, but not at an actual station.  After about 20 minutes, people started milling about and eventually reported that our train had struck a man.  Though he didn’t die from his injuries as far as we know, this isn’t the first and only incident of its kind. 

The good news is you can easily travel on the trains with a big piece of luggage or even two.  We actually brought seven with us when we arrived, but we were travelling at night when the trains are empty.  It took three of us, and we had to stack them in the pass throughs and stand with them the entire time of course, but at least we were able to manage it.   

Taxis are always at the ready when trains pull into the station, mostly petit taxis, but at some stations like in Tangier and Marrakesh grand taxis are abundant as well. 

Unlike the city buses, the train system in Morocco has a well-developed website with information, train schedules, and customer service phone line (though you probably have to speak French or Darija). 

On long journeys, there are sleeper trains which offer private cabins with beds that travel overnight.  I can hear them pass in the distance when everyone is sleeping and the night air becomes still.  I’ve always wanted to travel on one, but with my luck I’d be up all night and when I got to the destination I’d have to sleep through it!

The company also offers monthly commuter passes that offer little, but at least some discount on regular travel if you are going to be traveling from one place to another on a regular basis.  They are a little restrictive in that the passes are only good for point to point destination such as Rabat to Casablanca and whatever stops are in between, but you can’t use them on a train trip to Marrakesh for instance.  There may be other types of travel passes, but I’m only familiar with the commuter pass since we purchased them during our short stint working in Casablanca.

On our recent trip home from El Jadida, we started out on the city to city buses, but found it hot, crowded, and cramped.  At the stop in Casablanca, we opted to take a taxi to the nearest train station and ride back to Rabat by rail.  It was a good decision even with the extra cost of the taxi, which by the way, is only 10 DH from the bus station to Casa Voyagers.  We found a cabin style car, where little cabins have bench or individual seating and a closing door.  Most trains have open cabins with individual seating 2×2 which is a little better in my view.  But, then again, when you’re in close quarters you can meet and talk with the most random people.

And, on most journeys a little refreshment cart that passes by with over-priced snacks, drinks (hot coffee, tea, soda and juices), and pastries.  But, if you’re rushing on the train and hungry, at least you have an option.  In some places, enterprising individuals also roam the carts selling cookies, cakes, chips and drinks at reduced prices too.  I found this most often on the northern trains between Tangier and Fes. 

Some of my favorite Morocco photos were captured from the windows of the train.

Now that I’ve written a whole post on my point of view about trains, here are many others.  I actually meant to just create a post full of links to these, but see I somehow had a little more to say first!

• Hey Morocco – Morocco by Train
• Morocco.com – Trains
• Riad Views Blog – Guide to Trains in Morocco

What are you train experiences?  Has anyone ever travelled on the overnight sleeper trains?  Please share any tips, stories or otherwise useful information on train travel in Morocco.

Date stamped photo credit to my dad.

You get what you pay for…

It’s one of those sayings that remains true no matter what you’re trying to get or where you’re trying to go.  I mentioned the recent dip in price of the new bus company in Rabat- a price drop of .50 DH.  The new company was to have nicer, bigger buses and keep up the current routes with better service.  Huh.  Now, after how many months have I been writing about this? there has been no change except for a few freak exceptions of happening to arrive at the bus stop when an empty-ish bus comes within minutes.  Such luck would lead one to believe that things had returned to normal until the next time you’re waiting for the bus and it’s back to the same ‘ol same ol.

On Tuesday, we had an errand to run in the evening and decided to head to the medina afterwards for another errand and maybe a bite to eat.  No buses went to the place where our first errand was so of course we took a taxi right away.  We considered trying to find the bus to the medina from there, but after 2 #7’s passed us twice, we had to go with another taxi- but, with the buses a mess the petit taxis are all so busy it took us a good 25 minutes to even find one. 

Finally in the medina, we took care of another errand and tried to find some food, but none of the restaurants are open since everyone is still dining on their sheep.  Plenty of the cafes and pastry shops were open, but no place for a real solid meal.  We should have thought of that.  We resigned ourselves to a glass of juice and our favorite cake at the no name shop near Pizza Ricca, but when we passed by and saw a poor choice of treats and our favorite one not on display we kept going.  Finally, we thought of walking all the way back up Hassan II Avenue to the shawarma shops not thinking they wouldn’t be open either.  Of course they’re not open.  We cross the street to a little hanut and buy some hot dogs, juice and Lebanese bread for a quick dinner at home- we are both famished by now. 

We make our way a few blocks to the bus stop where  a few routes pick up before going their separate ways at the next intersection.  Buses come and go, but not a single #7 or #30 pass after about 15 minutes.  We notice a man standing a bit too close to the cars whizzing by with his hands waving up and down at each of the other buses passing by.  He’s yelling at them and getting more and more angry.  We sort of write him off as a little bit unstable and take a few steps away.  Finally, a #7 comes our way, but it’s a miniature bus packed to the brim and doesn’t even stop because no one could fit on it.  When a #45 appears and open it’s doors, the man starts yelling at the driver- he was obviously waiting for #7 like us because after his tirade, he was still standing in the crowd.  My husband tells me he’s ranting that he’ll be going to speak to the boss of the company the next day.

Another 20 or so minutes and plenty of buses pass us, but none of them are #7 or #30 so we finally decide we’ll have to take a taxi.  More minutes pass as we flag and flag little blue cars, but they are all full and a few just flat-out refuse to take us where we want to go.  Finally, an empty grand taxi parks right in front of us, probably to take a break, but my husband offers him a little extra to take us on and in the meantime, three others going our way make it worth his while.  Break forgotten, we are finally in a car and on our way.  Of course, there is an accident about 1/2 way home so we have to take a slight detour- oh what a night! 

So, there hasn’t been a single change to the buses since the new company arrived other than the reduction in price- whoopie do!  The buses aren’t all shiny and new save for a couple, and in fact the old buses where for the most part in better shape.  They obviously don’t run at the numbers needed for the rider demand and we now spend much more money taking taxis to place we happily rode the bus too. 

I think back to what the man was saying about going to speak with the bus company boss the following day and I realize how this is not something enough people can actually do to help make change.  In America, we have customer service desks, numbers, emails and when all else fails Twitter campaigns to voice our concerns over lack of service or quality in something we pay for.  We can work our way up from speaking with a sales associate to a manager to the manager’s manager.  As seemingly valuable customers, they will usually bend to our whims and give us what we want so we’ll come back again. 

In this situation there’s not customer service desk, number or website to complain to.  I highly doubt that man did anything the next day because who even knows where to go to complain.  If you finally do get on the bus, it’s pointless to say anything to the driver or the ticket clerk because with all the extra people complaining, I’m sure they are just as tired and frustrated as we are. And so many people have to rely on the bus because other modes of transportation are out of their budget, and life necessitates getting where they need to go- boycotting is not a luxury they can afford either.

We are very lucky that the buses are not our only option and that we can afford to take taxis if we want or have to.  But, the American in me is really peeved that I can’t really do much more about the situation other than continue to take taxis and the few lucky buses I can get on until things can get better.  And anyone who knows me knows, I love a good complaint letter or phone battle over a customer service issue, but I don’t even speak the language so I’m really powerless here.  All I can do is keep waiting for the bus, hoping it comes empty enough to hop on and if not take a taxi or forego my planned trip.   Moreover, I feel so terrible for the many people who have to sit and wait until the bus finally comes along because they don’t have any other choice. 

There is always hope and often an expectation that when something new comes along it’s bigger, better or more advanced than it’s predecessor.  So far and until further notice, it just isn’t so with Karama buses in Rabat.  Ugh.